2008
11.27
In part one, I demonstrated how to add light to reduce the overall dynamic range of a scene. In this part, I’ll try and demonstrate how aperture and shutter speed combine to control exposure of the ambient light and light from the strobe.
Maintaining ambient exposure by changing both aperture and shutter speed.
In the shots above, aperture and shutter speed combine to control the exposure. This is fairly common sense. A wider aperture allows more light to reach the sensor (or film) and a narrower aperture allows less light. The longer the shutter is allowed to remain open, the greater amount of light is allowed in and conversely the shorter the shutter speed, the amount of light is restricted. By adjusting both you can maintain the amount of ambient light but notice how the light from the flash changes.
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2008
11.25
Taken at a previous Los Angeles Strobist meet-up.
It’s time again for another Los Angeles Strobist meet-up. This time we’ll be on location (i.e. outside) at Cheviot Hills Park.
These meet-ups are an opportunity for photographers to learn from each other, socialize and play with some neat gear.
It is also a great opportunity for experienced models and stylists to update their portfolios with new looks by doing some TF* work and for new models to come out and get some real-world experience.
Details
When: Sunday, December 7th, 1-5pm
Where: Cheviot Hills Park, corner of Pico & Motor on the westside
Who: up to 20 photographers total + 5 models
You can get the down-and-dirty details in the flickr discussion thread here.
2008
11.21
One of the problems shooting in broad daylight is having enought dynamic range to capture both the highlights and the shadows in the scene. Unfortunately, our cameras (film or digital) aren’t capable of capturing all that information at once.
Typically, you would decide do you shoot to keep details in the highlight areas, shadow areas, or decide to shoot somewhere inbetween and loose a little at both ends.
Another option is to bracket your shots and combine them into one photograph in the computer or the darkroom.
A third option is to somehow compress the dynamic range of the actual scene by adding light to the shadow areas and darkening the highlight areas so that it falls within the capability of your camera to capture it.
It’s obvious enough that you can add additional light to the dark areas of your scene using strobes, but what isn’t as obvious is how you darken the highlight areas espeically when those areas include the sky or some other object that you wouldn’t easily be able to shade (like a building).
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